Monday, January 7, 2008
Day 6- abcdefghijlmnopalopalogualogo!
We all woke up for a trip to the Cultural Art Center, a huge market. There are what feels like hundreds of small stands, with vendors ready and willing to approach, using tactics as sneaky as "Oh! My friend! I have forgotten your name!" Reminding them that they never knew your name (jokingly) doesn't bother them in the least. The relief of so many stands is that there are inevitably repetitions, making the necessary, encouraged haggling easier - comparison shopping made very, very real. We found some souvenirs and gifts, including sculptures of animals made from melted down old cedi coins and recycled car parts (my favorite).
Out back, Molly lead us to her friend Louis Wonder ("Won-da"), a professional drummer and drummaker. He took us into the back room of his shop to welcome us, then gathered some friends - including Shine, who later revealed himself to the be the first flutist of the Pan-African Orchestra - for a concert. Shine taught me all the drum names: I recognized the djembe (which pleased him almost as much as my familiarity with the Orchestra), and he introduced me to the dom-dom and the bass, gome. Louis got Molly to go get libations as an offering to the spirits afterwards - the Rastafarians give thanks to their predecessors for passing down the music. Molly arranged for us to return at sunset for drumming lessons on the beach.
Louis proved himself to be exactly the teacher most American pre-schools are looking for. He taught us basic Palogo rhythms, broke them down into small segments, and sprinkled his lessons with exclamations like "WOW!" "Nice one!" and "Clap for yourself!", which Molly says is a typical Ghanaian expression. By the end, he had us playing supporting rhythms - accompanied by one of his students on cowbell - and singing a song children learn as a mnemonic. It would be difficult to transcribe, but I did write it down in the notebook I've been carrying - when we left the market in the morning Louis asked us all to bring a pen and paper, to help us remember and bring his lessons home with us. He offered to arrange a bonfire on the beach on our last night, and, beyond, assured us "family prices" on any instruments we decide to buy.
Day 3- Chez Afrique with Auntie Serwah
It was a big day of cleaning for the centre. Lots of toys and other teaching materials needed to be washed and organized, so our volunteers got right into the thick of it! The harmattan brings thick dust into the centre and I'm so glad we were there to help restore it to beauty. Auntie Serwah, Mr. Mawusi and I discussed the teaching at the centre and all the great things that are going on. I am so excited about their dedication and enthusiasm, and meeting the staff and more of the children. One of the children enjoyed playing with a ball today and was happy to have a new playmate (lucky me!).
AKWAABA!
AKWAABA!
You are Welcome! This familiar Ghanaian greeting was recited over and over again to our volunteers as they wandered the streets of Accra and began to take in the sights and sounds of Ghana!
From Jess:
Vlad & I got off our near-empty Delta flight; in Accra you disembark outside, and there is indeed a huge 'AKWAABA' sign painted on the outside of the airport. Inside there were many banners advertising the upcoming Africa Cup of Nations, a football tournament we will all, tragically, miss due to school. The visa people were the kindest I've ever come across - my guy asked what my name means, assured me it had to mean something, and, appalled by a mere 2-week stay, promised to throw in an extra 2 to allow me a full 4. We were destined to be friends, he explained, given our sharing a birthday.
That set the tone for the local population. Outside on the tarmac, attendants repeatedly checked in, making sure that we were okay, offering us their cell phones. Though we weren't worried, we eventually caved, resulting in 2 calls to Auntie Serwah (who was unflaggingly polite and receptive, notably so for such an erroneous mishap).
After settling in at our respective abodes (the Project's apartment and the Obroni House), we went over to the Center, where we were greeted by Mr. Mousey, the educational coordinator. Auntie Serwah ("Mrs. Q", to Mousey) arrived soon after. They seemed delighted to see us. High fives are common, as are thumbs up - though you must be careful here to stick your thumb straight up as a tilted thumb in that position is profane. Auntie Serwah explained that most of the children are still on holiday, but introduced us to Kofi and Jeffrey, the two children present. Kofi recognized Molly and pulled her in to take her to a classroom and get to work.
Soon after getting our bearings and hanging at the Center, we went to get dinner. On the way we met Steven, the guard, a 90-something year-old man who sits outside on the stoop watching over things. Unfailing, he smiles, nods, reaches for a handshake and announces, "You are welcome". We learned it's important here to always greet elders, with a "Good [whatever time of day]". Steven taught us the How are you/I'm fine exchange in Ga, one of the local dialects, and was glad to see that I could answer his French in kind.
Molly and Nic took us to Hi-Tech Fast Food, a local spot that specializes in fried chicken and rice. I opted for choli, the spicy sauce (Auntie Serwah had earlier congratulated my eagerness to eat anything and everything), and was glad I did. Hi-Tech is wonderful, with blue light bulbs and a disproportionate amount of space dedicated to speakers (which play a bit of highlife and a LOT of Akon). It is NOT, egregiously, in any of the guidebooks previous volunteers and other guests have left at the house.
You are Welcome! This familiar Ghanaian greeting was recited over and over again to our volunteers as they wandered the streets of Accra and began to take in the sights and sounds of Ghana!
From Jess:
Vlad & I got off our near-empty Delta flight; in Accra you disembark outside, and there is indeed a huge 'AKWAABA' sign painted on the outside of the airport. Inside there were many banners advertising the upcoming Africa Cup of Nations, a football tournament we will all, tragically, miss due to school. The visa people were the kindest I've ever come across - my guy asked what my name means, assured me it had to mean something, and, appalled by a mere 2-week stay, promised to throw in an extra 2 to allow me a full 4. We were destined to be friends, he explained, given our sharing a birthday.
That set the tone for the local population. Outside on the tarmac, attendants repeatedly checked in, making sure that we were okay, offering us their cell phones. Though we weren't worried, we eventually caved, resulting in 2 calls to Auntie Serwah (who was unflaggingly polite and receptive, notably so for such an erroneous mishap).
After settling in at our respective abodes (the Project's apartment and the Obroni House), we went over to the Center, where we were greeted by Mr. Mousey, the educational coordinator. Auntie Serwah ("Mrs. Q", to Mousey) arrived soon after. They seemed delighted to see us. High fives are common, as are thumbs up - though you must be careful here to stick your thumb straight up as a tilted thumb in that position is profane. Auntie Serwah explained that most of the children are still on holiday, but introduced us to Kofi and Jeffrey, the two children present. Kofi recognized Molly and pulled her in to take her to a classroom and get to work.
Soon after getting our bearings and hanging at the Center, we went to get dinner. On the way we met Steven, the guard, a 90-something year-old man who sits outside on the stoop watching over things. Unfailing, he smiles, nods, reaches for a handshake and announces, "You are welcome". We learned it's important here to always greet elders, with a "Good [whatever time of day]". Steven taught us the How are you/I'm fine exchange in Ga, one of the local dialects, and was glad to see that I could answer his French in kind.
Molly and Nic took us to Hi-Tech Fast Food, a local spot that specializes in fried chicken and rice. I opted for choli, the spicy sauce (Auntie Serwah had earlier congratulated my eagerness to eat anything and everything), and was glad I did. Hi-Tech is wonderful, with blue light bulbs and a disproportionate amount of space dedicated to speakers (which play a bit of highlife and a LOT of Akon). It is NOT, egregiously, in any of the guidebooks previous volunteers and other guests have left at the house.
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